Steps by Step for a healthy lawn

8 Basic Keys to a beautiful lawn

January 1 – February 15 | Winter

Balance of Plant Nutrients, Winter Weed Control and Pre-emergence
crab grass Control

February 15 – March 30 | Spring

Fertilizer including micronutrients with broadleaf weed control.

March 30 – May 15 | Late Spring

Fertilizer including micronutrients, and broadleaf weed control.

May 15 – July 1 | Early Summer

Fertilizer including micronutrients with targeted summer weed control.

July 1 – August 15 | Summer

Balanced Fertilizer including micronutrients with targeted broadleaf
weed control.

August 15 – October 1 | Late Summer

Fertilizer including micronutrients with broadleaf weed control.

October 1 – November 15 | Fall

Fertilizer including micronutrients with broadleaf weed control.

November 15 – December 30

Soil Conditioning Winterizer with Micronutrients

Other Useful Info

BROWN PATCH (optional)

Brown Patch is most common to Bermuda, Centipede Grass, and St. Augustine grass especially in areas with high humidity and/or shade. Brown patch commonly starts as a small spot and can quickly spread outwards in a circular or horseshoe pattern up to a couple of feet wide. Often times, while expanding outwards, the inside of the circle will recover, leaving the brown areas resembling a smoke-ring.

After the leaves die in the blighted area, new leaves can emerge from the surviving crowns. On wide-bladed species, leaf lesions develop with tan centers and dark brown to black margins. This disease can be very active in the spring and fall. It also occurs in areas that receive more than 10 hours a day of wetness for consecutive days.

Brown patch infestation is more severe when the grass is cut to a height less than the optimum for the variety of grass.

MOLE CRICKET CONTROL (optional)

February 1 – September 30
Seasonal Mole Cricket Control (1 time per season)

FIRE ANT CONTROL (optional)

February 1 – September 30
Seasonal Fire Ant Control (1 timer per season)

SPRING MULCHING TIPS

Re-mulching your flowerbeds is an important operation that should be done every spring.

First remove any grass or weeds that have crept into your planting beds. Then till existing mulch into the soil (or work in with a gardening fork) to help loosen the soil around your plants and enable water and nutrients to penetrate. If the soil is heavy and hard, amendments such as peat can be worked in to help create a lighter texture.

Work in a light application of well-aged manure or a commercial time-release fertilizer. Remove any dead plants and install new plants before you apply your mulch layer. Mulch with “finished” compost from your pile or a good commercial wood mulch, placed three-to-four inches deep in the bed. Mulch this thick controls weeds and grasses and helps maintain moisture and a moderate soil temperature.

Although fine mulch should be used to create a good barrier on top of the soil, larger size bark “nuggets” can be added as a top layer to dress the bed up.

IRRIGATION TIPS

Your irrigation system is the key to creating a healthy, water-efficient landscape. Use the tips in this section to know how to water and when.

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